Local Burger and Fries

Who among us does not love a burger? Even when we were too young for a burger and a beer, even when we switched to turkey burgers, or, god forbid, veggie burgers, something there is, to mangle Robert Frost, that loves a burger. And some fresh-cut french fries wouldn’t hurt either.

One of the newest entries to the Northampton dining scene is LOCAL BURGER AND FRIES (16 Main St., 586-5857, www.localburgerandfries.com). Located in the corner spot recently vacated by Fire Cuisine, it is the brainchild of three brothers, Jeff, Chris and Steven Igneri, who opened it in early January. The menu is pretty simple: Black Angus or Easthampton’s Chicoine Farms beef burgers, and turkey, veggie or portabello mushroom burgers; home-cut white or sweet potato fries; and onion rings. There are some burger combos and sides, but burgers are the main attraction and they are good.

Ordering is simple. At the counter, you pick your burger, specify “pink or not pink,” whether you want lettuce, tomatoes, onions or pickle, and what you’d like for sides and drinks. You pay, taking note of the number on your check, and find a seat. After a while, someone will walk through the place calling out your number. Bus your table when you’re done. Once Chris, who usually takes your order during the day, gets to know you, he’ll chat a bit. But not too long; the place is busy.

The basic burger is a Black Angus from the Midwest, all-natural and free of antibiotics, for $4.99. For a buck extra, you can get Chicoine Farms organic beef, which has a good, strong beefy taste and is well worth the extra cost. The fries are about the best I’ve had in a restaurant. Clearly homemade, and fried twice # once to cook them and once to brown them up # they have been tasty and crispy each time I’ve tried them. The housemade onion rings # large slices of Spanish onion in a thick beer batter # are Steve’s specialty. I prefer fries to onion rings, but the Local Burger and Fries onion rings draw raves from the aficionados I know. The homemade chipotle ketchup that accompanies them should be an option for the burgers, too; it’s got a good flavor and just a touch of fire.

For the non-beef inclined, there is a farmhouse turkey burger, a veggie burger and a portobello burger. Combos include the Southwestern burger with grilled chilis and a teriyaki burger. The adventurous can order a fried pickle, originally a Mississippi treat, or construct their own burgers from an array of extras.

Normally, the rule is to wait three months before writing about a restaurant, just in case it doesn’t make it. That’s always a possibility, especially in these troubled times. But there has been a lot of interest in Local Burger since the sign went up in December. When I mention it, people ask whether it’s open yet. The business has a lot going for it: The menu is inexpensive and appeals to a wide audience, and Jeff, who Chris calls the brains of the operation, has a graduate degree in hospitality from Johnson & Wales and years of restaurant work behind him.

Not to say Local Burger doesn’t have its rough spots. During the rush, burgers may come out more, or less, cooked than requested, not so good when you’ve ordered a turkey burger. Sometimes the server can wander for a bit trying to find the person who placed order #53, say. These, however, are the kinds of things that, when you like a place, you chalk up to growing pains. The staff will fix anything that’s not right, which is about all you can ask.

Jeff Igneri spent the last 15 years in the Providence area, at restaurants ranging from a tavern in North Attleboro to the Providence Westin. He came here to visit his girlfriend, a local, about six months ago and fell in love with the Pioneer Valley. He recruited his brothers from New York, where Chris was working front of the house at places like the Mesa Grill and Indigo. They scouted out locations, ultimately finding 16 Main on Craigslist. The Igneris spent three months fixing it up and opened in early January.

The three brothers are essentially living at the restaurant to put in the hours it needs. And Local Burger is a family affair. The gentleman you see helping out in the kitchen is their father.

It’s not like Northampton doesn’t have good burgers or even homemade ketchup (at the Toasted Owl directly across the street), but there’s a good feeling to Local Burgers. Some restaurant locations seem to be cursed # one place after another opens and closes in regular succession # until someone gets it right and lifts the curse. Panda East did that for its location in Amherst and Local Burger seems poised to do that in Northampton.

For now the brothers are working hard on getting things running smoothly rather than expanding the menu. They are CISA members and buy their potatoes from Szawlowski Farms in Hatfield, and they plan to use more local produce this summer in specials and side dishes. They are also looking into a beer and wine license.

Prices range from $4.99 for a basic burger to $8.99 for the Juicy Lucy (a 12-ounce patty stuffed with American cheese). Fries are $1.99 or $3.49, and onion rings are $3.79. There are wings and hot dogs as well as a kid’s meal. Fountain sodas are $1.79; bottled drinks, $1.95.

Local Burgers is open from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday, and until 3 a.m. Thursday through Saturday. It takes Visa and Master Card and you can B.Y.O.B.

Originally published Daily Hampshire Gazette, February 6, 2009